A Luxury Guide to Travel in Albania
Albania, a hidden gem in the heart of the Balkans, is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours. However, with its stunning landscapes, from the pristine beaches of the Riviera to the majestic peaks of the Albanian Alps, and its diverse offerings, from vibrant cities to serene coastal towns, Albania is perfect for those seeking a unique and authentic travel experience.
We however, set out to uncover a different side of this intriguing country – one of opulence, elegance, and unparalleled comfort. Throughout our journey, we indulged in the finest accommodations each destination had to offer, staying at some of the country’s most luxurious properties available. Join us as we explore whether Albania can truly be considered a luxury travel destination.
How Many Days Are Sufficient for Albania?
Albania has so many different areas to be explored, that you can easily visit this country for as many or as few days as you have available. You could spend just 4-5 nights on the coast for a beach vacation, or spend a whole month exploring the country from north to south, interior to coast.
To get a full sense of Albania’s charm, we recommend spending at least 10 days exploring the country. This allows ample time to discover the diverse regions, from the bustling capital of Tirana to the tranquil beaches of Ksamil and the historical sites in Berat and Gjirokaster. In this Albania travel guide, we will offer you a luxurious 2-week itinerary.
What is the Best Way to Get Around Albania?
While public transportation such as bus is available, a car rental is the best way to get around Albania. Renting a car in Albania gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and venture off the beaten path to discover hidden gems. Despite warnings about road conditions and driving habits, we found driving throughout Albania to be relatively straightforward and safe. We were even quite wary about navigation after reading many articles about how Google Maps is unreliable in this country, however, we had no issues using it 99% of the time.
Is Albania safe to travel to right now?
Due to discouraging online reviews and warnings about driving, we initially had low expectations of this destination. However, from the moment we landed in Tirana, we fell in love with Albania, and our admiration only grew as we traveled. We found driving straightforward, Google Maps reliable, and felt incredibly safe in Albania. We even felt comfortable leaving our luggage visibly in our rental car—a level of trust we don’t have at home.
Why is Albania so famous?
There are of course the endless photos and videos of the beautiful Albania Riviera all over social media, however another highly regarded aspect is the food. The food in Albania was simple but delicious, typically consisting of meats or vegetables cooked with olive oil from the many groves surrounding you. Each city offered regional dishes and coastal towns introduced us to fresh seafood. Still, other than Greek or Italian food, there was little culinary variety available.
Days 1-2: Tirana - A Vibrant Start
Your flight will likely land in Tirana, the capital city. Many guides suggest skipping Tirana, but that would be a disservice to this vibrant and eclectic city. When people ask what is the nicest part of Albania, the answer is often a coastal city with crystal clear beaches, however, we would argue that Tirana is a fierce competitor for this title.
Hotel: Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel & Spa
We stayed at the Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel & Spa, a five-star hotel that oozes old-world luxury yet is still comfortable. The well-appointed rooms feature comfortable beds, impressive noise isolation, and a shower with two heads that can run simultaneously—a gold standard. Xheko is located in the trendy Ish-Blloku District, an area with a relatively recent transformation into one of the city's most vibrant neighborhoods. This hotel offers easy access to a plethora of restaurants, cafes, and bars right outside your doorstep.
The hotel itself boasts a stunning 5th-floor rooftop restaurant and bar, serving craft cocktails and beautifully plated sushi, with a DJ playing on select nights. The rooftop area is lush with plants, creating an impeccable vibe, and your hotel room is just a quick elevator ride away.
Guests can also enjoy the hotel's spa area for free, which features an indoor pool, jacuzzi, steam room, and sauna. The entire spa area feels as though it has been transplanted from an ancient Roman emperor's home, with marble floors and water fountain statues. Although located in the hotel's basement, the pool area has a unique overhead light that mimics a skylight with a garden above.
Recommended Activities:
In Tirana, the best way to immerse yourself in the city's charm is by strolling through its vibrant streets, soaking in the lively atmosphere and diverse sights. Take a gondola up Dajti Mountain for breathtaking views of the entire city, or enjoy a panoramic perspective from the rotating Sky Bar while sipping a cocktail. For more detailed recommendations on how to spend a perfect day in Tirana, check out our full guide [COMING SOON].
Recommended Eats:
Located near the New Bazaar, Oda is a fantastic introduction to Albanian cuisine. Here, we savored juicy and flavorful stuffed peppers and lamb cooked over coals, simple yet bursting with taste. Don't miss the Puka beer on tap, an amber-colored delight.
For another taste of traditional Albanian cuisine, Mullixhui is a must-visit. Located a short drive from the city center, this restaurant offers a tasting menu showcasing the best local flavours. The chef, who has worked at the renowned Noma, brings a touch of culinary excellence to every dish. The 8-course tasting menu is very reasonably priced at 3000 Albanian LEK (33 USD).
Nouvelle Vague Tirana is ranked the 86th-best bar in the world, and is a sensory delight with eclectic decorations and vibrant colors throughout. The creative menu features cocktails primarily made with local liquor raki and generally at least four other ingredients. Drinks are served with popcorn, and despite its acclaim, the prices remain some of the most affordable we experienced.
One Final Stop:
On your way out of Tirana, be sure to stop at Fustanella Farm, a farm-to-table restaurant just 30 minutes outside the city. Set amidst picturesque fields, the restaurant offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The organic food is incredibly delicious.
Our only regret was not ordering the village chicken. We were told it would be too much for just two people, but after seeing plate after plate of expertly cleaned bones at the tables around us, we realized we might have missed out on a delightful experience.
Days 3-4: Berat - Beautiful History
Berat, known as the "City of a Thousand Windows," is a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its stunning Ottoman architecture and picturesque setting. The city, often referred to as the "White City," boasts a blend of history and culture. Upon arriving, we headed straight to the castle, an iconic landmark. The castle ruins are not just historic remnants but are lined with shops and restaurants, offering a unique experience.
Spectacular viewpoints at the castle include the overlook near St. Mary of Blachernae Church and the Berat viewing platform, which offers a breathtaking view of the Gorica side of town and the Osum River beside it. The sight of white houses with windowed fronts against the lush, tree-covered mountains is truly unforgettable.
After taking in the view, we enjoyed a drink at Te Zalua, a nearby café offering another incredible vista of a different mountainside. Don't forget to explore the various souvenir shops in the area; we found beautifully patterned and coloured Albanian rugs at very reasonable prices, ranging from 10 to 25 euros depending on the size.
Hotel Review: Muzaka Boutique Hotel & Restaurant
We chose to stay at the Muzaka Boutique Hotel & Restaurant, and we could not have been happier with our decision. The key here is to choose a castle view room, which greets you with three windows offering the most spectacular hotel room view you could ever imagine. From your bed, you have a front-row seat to the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site of beautiful and nearly uniform white houses, covered in windows.
The hotel's prime location on the Gorica side of the city provides several advantages. Firstly, there are fewer stairs to navigate compared to the Mangalem side, and you can drive your car and luggage directly up to the hotel for check-in and parking. Secondly, the area tends to be quieter, ensuring a restful sleep, yet you are still only steps away from a bridge leading to the many restaurants and bars on the Mangalem side. Lastly, by staying on the Gorica side, you get to enjoy the (in our opinion) more beautiful view of the Mangalem side from your room.
Despite being located above the main road, we found the noise isolation in the hotel to be excellent. The hotel also has a restaurant with a veranda that offers a partial view of the town. Although the food was not our favourite in the city, the upscale and romantic ambiance made for an enjoyable dining experience.
Recommended Activities
In Berat, the main activity is to walk around and soak in the unique architecture and charming streets. You can easily waste an afternoon finding countless beautiful vistas, and meandering streets with grapevines growing overhead.
As mentioned earlier, exploring the castle and its surroundings is a must, as is visiting the local shops for souvenirs like Albanian rugs, which are reasonably priced and fold up small enough to fit in a suitcase.
Another great spot to visit is the Cobo Winery, located just 20 minutes outside of Berat. You will find their wines on menus throughout the country, and for good reason—they are excellent and award-winning. The vineyard visit is a lovely and picturesque experience, and the tasting, priced at 45 euros, includes cheeses, salami, bread, and olive oil so tasty that we purchased a bottle of it, along with several wines to take home. The bottles feature clever names with wordplay, and many are made with grapes unique to Berat and Albania, covering all varieties from white to rosé, red, and even sparkling.
Recommended Eats
Homemade Food Lili is the most recommended restaurant in this city, though unfortunately it was closed both days we visited, so we cannot attest to its quality. We did however dine at Hotel & Traditional Food Ansel and found it excellent.
Be sure to seek out some dishes unique to Berat, such as the beef roll—a piece of local beef rolled up with cheese or egg inside, then breaded and deep-fried to delicious perfection. Another must-try is the Monblan dessert, Berat’s take on the classic Mont Blanc. It’s a glass full of rich meringue, which was a bit too sweet for our tastes, but it is always a joy to try new desserts.
Day 5: Permet - Wild Wonders
Just the drive to Permet alone is worth your time. This could very well be the most beautiful part of your stay in Albania. The winding roads with beautiful mountains towering on each side of you are only made more picturesque by the electric blue water below. We suggest you stop for a riverside meal on this drive before reaching your destination.
We stopped at the River Restaurant Bar for a delicious meal where we finally righted our past mistake at Fustanella Farm and ordered the village chicken. These birds are smaller than North American chickens and packed full of so much more flavour. The dish can be ordered with pasta or rice; we opted for the latter. As far as we could tell, it was all cooked together because it arrived in a large pot, and the rice was dripping with that delightful chicken flavour. We also enjoyed the village salad, which can be found throughout the country and is almost identical to a Greek salad but with less cheese.
Hotel Review: Villa Permet
In Permet, we stayed at Villa Permet, which is no doubt the most luxurious property in town. Although perched up on the hill, some back alley roads mean it is still only a 10-minute walk away from the town center at a bit of an incline. Our room was beautiful, and the view from the hotel was magnificent.
The breakfast spread was full of custom coffees and local delights, including Albanian pancakes, a fresh fruit bowl, and some small baked cakes. It was certainly a highlight for us.
The only real downside was that this hotel has no elevator, and with our room on the third floor, it made for a tiring hike up and down each time.
If you are only doing a quick one-night stop in Permet, it may be more sensible to find a hotel centrally located in the main part of town and close to restaurants. If you would rather have a luxurious and relaxed stay, choose Villa Permet and enjoy their romantic dining patio in the evening and the breakfast spread in the same spot the next morning. You can even have a pre-breakfast espresso in your own room, as this hotel was the first we encountered in Albania with an in-room Nespresso machine.
Recommended Activities
The main activities you are likely visiting Permet to enjoy are the Benje thermal baths and the Vjosa river rafting. Although incredibly unique, neither activity was quite what we expected. We would suggest reading our guide on everything you need to know before you visit Permet COMING SOON before your stay.
Recommended Eats
The one dish we found on every menu in Permet and seldom other places in the country was Dolma. The traditional Greek grape leaves dish with rice and herbs was executed flawlessly at every spot we tried in town.
Additionally, we found the best ice cream in all of Albania at Pasticeri Londo. Although we were only staying for one night, they certainly knew our faces there by the time we left.
Day 6: Gjirokaster - A Vibrant Crossroads
Nestled in the heart of southern Albania, Gjirokaster is a city that boasts a rich history and a vibrant atmosphere. Located only a few hours' drive from Berat, Gjirokaster feels like a bustling town in comparison.
The main tourist hub is centered around the Gjirokastra Bazaar, a dense area brimming with souvenir shops, cafés, and restaurants. The streets are alive with the hustle and bustle of locals and tourists alike, making it a delightful place to explore.
Hotel Review: Kerculla Resort
For our stay in Gjirokaster, we chose the ultra-luxurious Kerculla Resort, known for its breathtaking views over the city. However, this stunning view comes with a catch—it's situated high on a hill, making the journey there quite an adventure.
Our drive up was challenging, with Google Maps leading us astray, resulting in a treacherous ascent. The hotel doesn't offer a shuttle service into town, so guests will need to walk downhill for 15-20 minutes and likely find a taxi back up if they want to explore. This resort is ideal for those looking to relax and enjoy the amenities without venturing into the town frequently.
The rooms at Kerculla Resort are meticulously detailed, featuring carved wooden ceilings and unique chandeliers. We opted for the Deluxe King Suite, which offered a magnificent vista over the city and the resort. However, the room's layout made it difficult to properly enjoy the view from inside. The balcony was tiny, barely accommodating the chairs arranged on it, so that was not an ideal way to enjoy the view either.
We would recommend booking a lower-category room and spending time at the resort’s stunning dual pool area instead. Seating areas surround the upper and lower pools, though the woven umbrellas here do not provide sufficient shade.
At the resort, the hotel and restaurant are separate, meaning we had to purchase beverages from the restaurant and bring them to the pool ourselves. That same restaurant also serves an excellent dinner.
The meatball soup was a standout, with flour, yogurt, and meatballs combining to create a creamy, buttery mixture reminiscent of daal. The veal was perfectly cooked, comparable to the juiciest steak we have ever tasted. Although there was no wine list, various Albanian bottles were brought to our table, and the staff explained each one in detail, allowing us to select our favourite.
Overall, Kerculla Resort falls short of the full-service experience expected of a luxury property but offers a secluded and serene stay for a fraction of the price one would pay for it elsewhere.
Recommended Activities in Gjirokaster
After our impressive experience exploring the Berat castle, we decided to forgo the castle in Gjirokaster. Still, you can explore this historic fortress that offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains. The castle also houses a military museum with exhibits from various periods of Albanian history.
We would recommend exploring the area around the Gjirokastra Bazaar. Here you will find shop after shop selling beautifully coloured and patterned souvenirs, plenty of bars and cafes, and delicious looking restaurants. It is a small but densely packed area that is bustling with tourists.
Recommended Eats in Gjirokaster
A must-try is Gjirokaster’s signature dish, qifqi, and the best place we tasted these was at Taverna Kuka. These delicious rice balls are flavoured with herbs and cooked to perfection, offering a unique taste of the local cuisine.
Days 7-10: Ksamil- A Gem on the Albanian Riviera
Introduction to Ksamil
Finally, we've made it to the Albanian Riviera! Nestled in the southern part of Albania, Ksamil is a stunning coastal village known for its idyllic beaches and crystal-clear waters. Located just 20 kilometers south of Sarande and across the Ionian sea from the Greek island of Corfu, Ksamil offers a picturesque retreat with a rich history and vibrant culture.
Once a modest fishing village, Ksamil has grown into a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors with its beautiful landscapes and relaxed atmosphere. Ksamil is a unique destination where, despite the abundance of lounge chairs, it never felt overly crowded.
We visited in mid-June and were greeted with temperatures in the mid-thirties which, if you weren’t located beside the water, felt sweltering.
So what is the best time to visit Albania? Based on our extremely warm June visit, we would recommend avoiding the even hotter and busier July and August season.
Hotel Review: Manta Resort
For our luxurious stay in Ksamil, we chose Manta Resort. While the room and hotel didn't quite meet our standards of luxury, Manta Resort stood out for boasting its own unique beachfront location. Unlike many other hotels in the area, Manta Resort offers its guests chairs on its on-site private beach and dock, a rare and coveted feature in Ksamil.
The beach at Manta Resort was the highlight of our stay. The resort offers various lounging areas, including a small sandy beach, several rock-top decks with ladders leading into the ocean, and additional beachside spots wrapping around the resort in a 180-degree semi-circle. This variety provided plenty of options for relaxing by the sea.
The unique ordering system, where you can scan a QR code at your chair and have food or drinks delivered, added a modern touch to our beach experience. Although non-hotel guests occasionally paid to use the beach, it remained a peaceful retreat due to its slightly tucked-away location.
However, there were some downsides to our stay. The room and bathroom were quite small, with the bathroom featuring a glass half-panel in the shower, resulting in water splashing everywhere. The amenities were minimal, with just shampoo and body wash provided. The TV and desk were small, but there was a surprisingly spacious closet area.
Noise within the hotel was a bit of an issue, with frequent beeping alarms from other rooms as the doors did not fully close on their own. The biggest drawback was the firm 10 a.m. checkout, which put an abrupt end to our relaxing beach holiday.
Breakfast was a standard buffet, but we were pleasantly surprised by the delicious chocolate croissants and the availability of almond milk, a rarity in Albania.
Recommended Activities
Ksamil's beaches are its main attraction. Spend your days lounging on the private beach at Manta Resort or instead rent a chair at one of the many beach clubs which line the entire coast.
We spent a lovely afternoon renting beach chairs at Rlinda Beach for 10 euros each. The beaches in this area offer the opportunity to swim (or float) over to one of the Ksamil islands. Even if you choose to stay planted in your place, the view of the Ksamil islands in front of you is lovely.
We would also recommend making the journey slightly out of town to the Mussel House. Although this is technically a dining recommendation of a delicious spot to eat, the setting of the restaurant beside the water where the mussels are farmed is a unique experience. The restaurant even offers boat tours out to see the area.
Recommended Eats
The most upscale restaurant in town is Guvat. Here they are known for their fresh delicious seafood and Mediterranean cuisine, and offer a lovely dining experience with a beautiful view of the sea from a perch high above it.
Next door Abiori offers a similarly upscale feel, and is the first restaurant we encountered with a fresh pasta section on their menu. We enjoyd a delicious salmon and broccoli pasta dish in a creamy tomato sauce, as well as wood-fire pizzas and a whole grilled fish.
The plethora of restaurants serving incredible seafood ensured that we enjoyed dishes we typically wouldn’t even eat back home. You can read our full guide on visiting Ksamil and the best places to eat and visit HERE.
Days 11-13: Himare- Secluded Serenity
Nestled further north along Albania's stunning Riviera, Himare is a picturesque coastal town that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and modern luxury. Located between the vibrant city of Sarande and the historic town of Vlore, Himare is renowned for its crystal-clear turquoise waters, beautiful beaches, and rich cultural heritage.
The town's history dates back to ancient times, with evidence of Greek and Roman settlements, making it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts.
A Stay at Prado Luxury Hotel
For our stay, we chose the Prado Luxury Hotel, which consistently appeared on “Best Hotels in Albania” lists, and it certainly lived up to the hype. This upscale property features underground parking, valet service, luggage carts, and an abundance of marble accents, creating an immediate impression of luxury. The hotel also includes automatic doors and a comprehensive range of toiletries, amenities that are considered standard in luxury hotels worldwide, but that we rarely found in Albania.
Our room at Prado Luxury Hotel boasted an ultra-luxurious feature we had never encountered before: a full-sized hot tub on the balcony. Arriving to find it already filled and heated was a delight, and we appreciated the staff's diligent emptying of the water and cleaning in-between guests.
The room also featured a comfy bed and USB plugs on the side tables, small luxuries that enhanced our stay. However, the air conditioning system was somewhat finicky, turning off whenever the patio door was opened, even for a moment.
The hotel's resort-style pool, with its white marble design and three distinct tiers for lounging or swimming, was perfect. However, it is a family-friendly hotel, and the pool area was frequently overtaken by children and their toys during the day, making it difficult for adult guests to swim.
Prado Luxury Hotel's beach setup was impressive. Just a short walk across the street, we found thick, comfy beach chairs and spaciously arranged umbrellas. The crystal-clear, calm water provided a refreshing change from the crowded beaches and occasionally rough waters of Ksamil. The beach bar, which could have been plucked straight from Tulum, served delightful drinks and light bites, enhancing our beach experience.
A notable aspect of the Prado Luxury Hotel is its location on Livadi Beach, rather than Himare proper. This peaceful and secluded spot is both a pro and a con. While the tranquil setting was a welcome retreat, the 10-minute drive into Himare town, along winding roads, was necessary for accessing boat tours, as well as many restaurants and bars. Despite this, Livadi Beach has its own dining gems, including several wood-fired pizza spots and the hotel's own restaurants, which, although pricey, offer excellent sushi.
While the Prado Luxury Hotel offered an upscale experience with some unique features, for us, it did not fully justify its high price tag. However, Himare itself is a captivating destination with plenty to offer, from stunning natural beauty and historical sites to delicious dining options and exciting activities. Whether you're looking for relaxation or adventure, Himare is a destination that won't disappoint.
Recommended Activities in Himare
While in Himare, we highly recommend taking a boat tour to explore the nearby boat-in-only beaches and caves. We opted for the private sunset tour with Himara Water Taxi, which was excellent. This private 2-hour tour, reasonably priced at 150 euros, allowed us to enjoy many of the best beaches and caves in peaceful solitude, a stark contrast to the crowded daytime tours. For a more budget-friendly option, the Pirate’s Cave group tour offers a similar itinerary for only 30 euros per person.
During our tours, we encountered some incredible caves, as well as our first sandy beaches in Albania. Even the main beach in Himare has sandy sections, adding to its charm.
Recommended Eats in Himare
Himare's lively boardwalk, reminiscent of a smaller version of Sarande, is lined with restaurants and offers a vibrant atmosphere. For the best craft cocktails in town, head to UMI Sushi & Cocktail. Their rooftop patio is the perfect spot to enjoy expertly crafted drinks while taking in the stunning views of the Adriatic Sea.
Day 14: Durres- A Perfect End to Your Albanian Adventure
Nestled along the Adriatic Sea, Durres is a historic coastal city in Albania. As the final stop on our Albanian adventure, Durres provided the perfect setting to relax and reflect before heading home. Its proximity to the airport, just a 30-minute drive away, makes it an ideal final destination for travellers looking to soak up the sun and sea one last time.
Hotel Review: Palace Hotel & Spa
This grand, white, towering building sits right on the beach, offering stunning views of the Adriatic. The hotel's amenities are designed for ultimate comfort and relaxation, featuring a beautiful pool next to its restaurant and beach loungers along the sandy shore.
The rooms at the Palace Hotel & Spa are the most spacious we encountered on our journey through Albania. The comfortable bed and large washroom added to the luxurious feel, while the breakfast spread each morning was a delightful experience. With a custom-made specialty coffee bar and outdoor high-top tables overlooking the ocean from the 5th floor, breakfast here is an event in itself.
The hotel's beach features a sandy shore and lovely shallow waters for a relaxing dip, although it felt too close to the ferry terminal with large vessels for our comfort. For added relaxation, the hotel also features a spa area available to guests.
Recommended Activities
While in Durres, we would continue to focus on beach-side activities. The city's seaside promenade is perfect for a leisurely walk, offering beautiful views of the coastline and numerous cafes and shops to explore. You can also spend a day lounging on the sandy beaches, enjoying the warm sun and refreshing sea.
Recommended Eats
Durres offers a variety of dining options, but one of the standout experiences was at Westwood Meathouse. Here, we enjoyed one of the tastiest meals of our trip. The menu featured delicious bruschetta, rich truffle pasta, and a giant platter of carved steak cooked to perfection, all complemented by a bottle of house Albanian Merlot. The combination of flavours and the quality of the food made this meal a memorable highlight.
Conclusion of our luxury Albania travel guide
After visiting some of the most luxurious properties in seven different cities during our trip to Albania, we left Durres pondering an important question: Is Albania a luxury travel destination?
Our answer is a yes, but with a twist. Albania redefines luxury, encouraging travellers to let go of preconceived notions of hot towels, welcome drinks, pillow menus, and extensive amenities. Instead, embrace unparalleled views of UNESCO heritage sites, home-cooked meals of delicious yet straight-forward foods, and properties with character and charm unlike any other.
Is Albania expensive to visit this way? It can be. Given the large price tag of some of these hotels, we believe it is possible to choose a more budget-friendly version of travel through Albania without sacrificing enjoyment.
Regardless of how you decide to travel this country, our advice is simple: just go and experience this beautiful and diverse place. And before you do, be sure to read our article "15 Things No One Tells You About Travelling in Albania" (COMING SOON) to prepare for your journey!
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